Frequently asked questions

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My chlorinator Salt Test reading is low, but the salt levels have been checked at the local pool shop and are correct @ 6000ppm

I’m getting a reading on my chlorinator Output Meter but there is no chlorine reading in the pool water. The chlorinator isn’t working

My Overload Switch/Button keeps tripping

My chlorinator fuse keeps blowing

When and how much salt will I need to add?

I can hear my Self Cleaning chlorinator operating inside (clicking) when I switch the Selector Switch backward and forwards, but there is no output on the Output Meter, the meter stays stationary

I want to lengthen the output cable from the Power Pack to the Electrode.

On my Self Cleaning (SC) chlorinator, every now and again my chlorinator reading seems to be low or zero. If I turn it OFF and ON again, the reading comes up.

My terminals on top of the Electrode are corroded badly and become extremely hot to touch.

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Q: My chlorinator Salt Test reading is low, but the salt levels have been checked at the local pool shop and are correct @ 6000ppm, what do I do?

A: Check the following:

Is the electrode surface free of calcium build up, if not clean the electrode in a 1:10 pool acid/ water solution and conduct the test again.
The brass connectors on the lid of the cell have corrosion and need to be cleaned with emery paper.
The electrode lead may need to be replaced (if white, this will be the case).
The electrode may be faulty or starting to deteriorate, consult your nearest dealer or contact us on: 021 706 7575.

Q: I’m getting a reading on my chlorinator Output Meter but there is no chlorine reading in the pool water. The chlorinator isn’t working, what do I do?

A: If you are registering an output of anything from 25% - 100% on any given Selector Switch setting, then the chlorinator is operational; there must be something else wrong, such as; insufficient Stabiliser (60ppm), Low/High pH (cement =7 – 7.2 / fiberglass = 6,8 – 7.0), Total dissolved solids (TDS) is greater than 500ppm, or incorrect Total Alkalinity (125 -150ppm).

Let’s explain: If there is a reading on the Output Meter then by simple science, there must be chlorine being produced. The one cannot exist without the other in chlorination systems. The rational behind this is; The Output Meter is an Ampere Meter that registers current flow, for current to flow, there has to be a circuit, the salt water (NaCl electrolyte) completes the circuit between the Positive (+) plates and Negative (-) plates of the Electrode thus registering a reading on the Output/Ampere Meter. If current flows, then electrolysis has to be taking place and chlorine must be present, albeit that it’s not being an effective sanitiser due to other factors, (other than the Chlorinator). Have your water analysed and adjust water chemistry accordingly.

Q: My Overload Switch/Button keeps tripping, what do I do?

A: The Overload Button will trip out as a result of some abnormal condition - Take heed and check the following:

Ensure the electrode is free of any calcium (white chalky substance). Over calcified electrodes will cause the Overload Button to trip. If this is the case, clean and replace electrode and restart the chlorinator.
Ensure no foreign objects are causing the electrode plates to touch each other, or bridge out. Remove if necessary.
Is the unit being run for long periods of time on setting 4. If so, turn down to setting 3.
Notwithstanding the above, the Overload Button will trip in cases where there is an Over Salt Condition. If this is suspected:
- Turn down the Selector Switch down 1 position until the Overload ceases to trip.
- Observe the Output Meter needle reading at the point where the Overload ceases to trip.
- An indication of ~100% on the Output meter is the maximum current that the unit is able to produce, albeit on Selector Switch Position 1/2/3.
If the Overloaded Button is reset numerous times, without rectifying the fault, the Overload device will become damaged and it's functionality will be diminished. The result thereof will be the replacement of the device by a qualified agent.
This device is a non-Warranty item.

Q: My chlorinator fuse keeps blowing, what do I do?

A: The fuse provided on our systems are there to protect the incoming Power, this will have blown as a result of either:

A power surge or lightning strike in close proximity to the unit.
A short in the unit caused by some ingress of either water or vermin (ants, gecko, lizards, cockroaches, etc).
Excessive corrosion of the internal parts of the chlorinator due to storage of corrosive chemicals (pool acid, chlorine and/or other open chemicals within the pool box/housing), or water/moisture damage, due to leaking pumps, filters, pipes, rain/flooding, etc)
Either one of these conditions should be addressed by a professional/agent.
Do not attempt to replace the fuse with a larger current carrying capacity, doing so will result in severe damage to the unit and/or an electrical shock to the person attempting this, not to mention the voiding of the Warranty.

Q: When and how much salt will I need to add?

A: If a regular, once a week backwash is done (irrespective of the size of household swimming pool), you will require 50kg of salt and 500grams stabilizer every 3 months. Salt and stabilizer can only be depleted through water loss.

Q: I can hear my Self Cleaning chlorinator operating inside (clicking) when I switch the Selector Switch backward and forwards, but there is no output on the Output Meter, the meter stays stationary, what do I do?

A: There may be a number of reasons, or combinations of reasons for this situation, let us explain:

The Water flow sensor may be clogged up with calcium, remove the Electrode from its Housing and clear the calcium off the Water flow sensor with your finger. The calcium build up causes an insulator around the Water flow sensor and fools the system into believing there is no water flow, thereby causing the unit to go into protection/safe mode. Replace the Electrode after cleaning and operate the system normally.
Make sure all cables are connected to the Electrode and that no wires have come adrift. Ensure the Green and Yellow striped wire, with the small clip, is connected to the Electrode lid small pin.
Ensure that the Overload Button has not tripped. Check the system first before depressing the Overload Button. Repeat normal operation.
Failing the above, contact your local agent or contact us on: 021 706 7575.

Q: I want to lengthen the output cable from the Power Pack to the Electrode. Can I do this without damaging the unit?

A: Under no circumstances should the Output Cable to the Electrode be lengthened.

Altering the length voids the Manufacturers Warranty.
Lengthening the Output Cable reduces the efficiency of the chlorinator dramatically as this is a low voltage system and is designed and manufactured at a specific length to function optimally.

Q: On my Self Cleaning (SC) chlorinator, every now and again my chlorinator reading seems to be low or zero. If I turn it OFF and ON again, the reading comes up.

A:There is a distinct possibility that the electrode may be faulty as the SC chlorinator operates on a reverse polarity operation. Consult your nearest dealer for assistance or contact us on 021 706 7575.

Q: My terminals on top of the Electrode are corroded badly and become extremely hot to touch.

A: The corrosion comes from immersing the entire Electrode in an Acid solution whilst cleaning. This causes the acid to react with the brass fittings and copper wire causing a barrier between the respective contact points. This ultimately results in a resistance being formed and the high current passing through these corroded fittings now start to become hot.

It is recommended that these be addressed as soon as possible, as prolonged heat will melt the lid in the localized area of Electrode and ultimately destroy the electrode. Excessive corrosion will also impair the efficiency of the chlorinator resulting in lower outputs on the Output Meter and lower chlorine readings.
Once again this is a Non-Warranty issue, but an Owners responsibility.